Tuesday, December 31, 2013

Kicking Steps, Breaking Butts. POV Helmet Cam of Ice Climbing Fall and Failed Self Arrest

Thank you Viral News Russia for this video! We;re just about to go kick some steps in Keene Valley on the Chapel Pond Slab descent and this POV fall video is just what I needed to remember the importance of roping up the first timers even when it seems like a walk in the park!


"Scary POV Footage of a Mountain ICE Climber's Fall Climber Mark Roberts' GoPro Camera Captures Terrifying 100-Foot Fall Down Mountain"

Saturday, December 21, 2013

The Tasmanian Totem Pole is Back in the News

Although the pics circulating around the UK are dramatic, the following two videos are amazing.

Around the 5:15 mark the following vid really captures the the quality of some of the sequences on this route. Although the footage is spectacular, I couldn't help but smile wondering what a scene it would be on the sound stage if some of the grunts were added in post production... I am not sure if the uploader of this video is the videographer; wish we had more details.




The second video, from Carl Kllimt, has a bit more dialouge about the climb itself.


The story of the Totem Pole from Carl Klimt on Vimeo.

Wednesday, December 18, 2013

Brooke Raboutou documentary in Thinkr's "Prodigies" series.



This was one of the first climbing news videos of 2013 and is still one of the best. It's always nice when climbing news is picked up outside of the niche media.

For those of not familiar with Brooke's accomplishments or the folks @radical.media:

"11-year-old Brooke Raboutou is a rock climbing phenom who regularly breaks world records on elite bouldering and sport climbs once thought impossible for someone her age. With two former world champion climbers for parents and coaches, Brooke's pedigree is unmatched. Now she has set her sights on pushing both herself and the climbing world to even greater heights. 

PRODIGIES is a bi-weekly series showcasing the youngest, brightest, most talented phenoms from across the globe as they challenge themselves to reach new heights and the stories behind them.

Created and produced by @radical.media, THNKR gives you extraordinary access to the people, stories, and ideas that are transforming our world. "

Interesting... Climbing Video News presented by hosts / anchors in a standard 'show' format.

The folks at Always Forward Sports have put together a great segment on some new climbing news. In the 
episode below, they cover Cheyne Lempe's completion a rope-solo ascent of El Cap’s Salathé Wall in just 20 hours, 6 minutes,  Allfrey and Honnold completing the first-ever one-day ascent of El Cap’s "Excalibur" in 16 hours, 10 minutes (23 hours off the previous record), and Belgian climber Muriel Sarkany's becoming the 4th woman to ever  climb 5.14d. 



More video - 
Epic TV's coverage of Lempe's record on Salathe Wall and Sterling Rope's interview (last year) with Muriel:




Climbing Obsession with Muriel Sarkany – presented by Sterling Rope from sterling rope on Vimeo.

Well done and good luck with the show to Ryndi Zastrow, Cougar Littlefield, and Elisa Vasquez. 

Saturday, December 14, 2013

Sickening Video of Alex Honnold Losing his Feet on Yosemite's Mt Watkins



Some non-climbers contest the definition of a solo where a 'point of aid' was used. For those who do climb, the edge (of the galaxy) that Alex peeks over for a second (around the 1 minute, 10 second mark in the video) is a place many of us go to great lengths to never see. The folks at Sender Films have done a phenomenal job of capturing that split second where one feels the 'whump' of pupils responding to adrenaline when, for the first time and the last time, we realize that we can predict the future and we know exactly what's going to happen next.

Tuesday, August 5, 2008

A helicopter plucked two frostbitten Dutch climbers from K2 on Monday after an avalanche and exposure left at least 11 people presumed dead on the world s second-highest mountain.

Another survivor has been spotted at 8000 meters, he will be rescued if he can reach 6000 meters.

Click here for Video


Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Chimney Mountain, and Chimney Mountain Caves; Speculator / Indian Lake region, Adirondacks, New York State

Chimney Mountain is a favorite.

It's a short hike to the top with two ridges two choose from. Although many may shoot straight for the actual Chimney on top, it is better to cut left near the top and end up at the false summit across the gorge from the actual spire.


Once you're there, you'll have the opp to get to the real summit, not by backtracking, but by dropping in some class IV choss that is very sandy so make real use of your hands.



The gorge is like some kind of huge-fern hide-out with a lot of deep cracks and pits to maneuver or avoid. I have spent a lot of time up here alone in winter but would not advise this on the first trip...










At the bottom of the gorge, you'll be compelled to start feeling your way around like a ninja as cold, almost paranormal air starts to fall against you from multiple directions. Close your eyes and put your hands out like for a minute and though you'll look a little yoda-like, you'll find the caves your looking for.

If your leading a climb, you can go straight up to top out at the right of the chimney but this is some genuine choss so don't start if you're not a NY trad leader who never falls or unless you like using slings on horns and behind flakes just to be old-school.



The base of the chimney is fantastic with a lot of little hide-outs including the roof that appears to be (and may very well be) held up by a single key-stone.



The chimney itself is an easy solo and you can drag a rope and rig the top if you're bringing guests. No shoes needed.


Between the chimney and the USGS summit is a phenomenal camping spot with no views but a lot of space in every direction.

This is the heart of NY moose country and the bear are everywhere that you, or someone else, might have left a bunch of awesome treats so don't be an idiot... You might be an idiot so I won't advise eating anything you find in the woods, but there seem to be an unlimited supply of wild berries on this hill and they can tend to make a man wander if he knows what he's looking for.

If you're heading south after, the best thing you can do for yourself is go to the Melody Lodge and get some wings (the best) and a pepper steak (order from the bar menu). They have mastered the art of vedging with fresh-clean paint on the Adirondack chairs and a stone porch with great views and visiting hummingbirds.

I reckon you can contact me via my profile if you want details of have specific questions.

Jim